While there are a number of complicated bass traps designed to literally be part of the architecture, that is not always the best method–especially for people who rent.
As such, any budding music producer would do well to build their own bass traps which are mobile and modular, avoiding the need for permanent installation altogether.
That is why we have put together a short list of instructions to accompany a video showing you how to make your own DIY bass traps.
DIY Home Studio Bass Traps
1 – Measure
The first step for any construction project is to measure the area where the construction will go.
For bass traps, the important thing to remember is to measure the same distance from the center along the wall, then measure to the distance between the two points across the walls along the “imaginary” border of the bass trap.
Be mindful of things like power outlets or other types of utility connections like a cable or broadband connection.
2 – Materials
Once you know the dimensions of your bass trap, you will then want to figure out what size workpieces you will need for your construction.
While you do not have to prepare all of your workpieces ahead of time, it does help to do so for at least enough to make sure that the design will work in practice.
For this type, a single half-frame should let you know whether or not the design will work in practice.
Make at least one additional workpiece for each type to serve as a template for later stages.
3 – Cuts
One of the most dangerous steps of a DIY bass trap is cutting the wood.
You can pay a hardware store to do this for you if you do not have the tools or proficiency, but the cuts are not terribly difficult.
First, cut your 2” x 2” planks into 24” lengths and cut a 45-degree bevel cut along the length of the 24” workpieces.
You will then measure the particle board, bisecting first laterally and then diagonally, and cut so that it can form a top and bottom to the bass trap.
4 – Frame
Once you have made the cuts to your wooden workpieces, you will then assemble the frame.
This involves drilling a guide hole through the top and bottom of the bass trap into the bisected 2” x 2”s.
Once you have the guide holes drilled into the workpieces, you will fasten the pieces together using your screws.
Be sure to properly brace your workpieces to avoid error or injury, and be mindful that the longer face of the bisected 2” x 2” will go along the wall where the bass trap is positioned.
5 – Fill
Once you have built the frame, you will next want to fill it with some form of sound dampening insulation.
Roxul Safe’n’Sound is a fairly popular soundproofing insulation, but it is not the only one available and technically most single piece types of insulation will serve reasonably well in this capacity.
Regardless of the brand, you will need to cut the insulation to fit the shape of the bass trap and position it within the completed frame, stacking the insulation layers on top of one another.
One of your template pieces made earlier in the process can provide an excellent stencil to assist the cutting process.
6 – Cover
To further dissipate the kinetic energy of sound, you will invariably want to use some kind of fabric for the cover.
This can be specially treated fabric or even fabric which you personally treat to increase its sound dampening qualities.
When measuring and cutting the fabric, provide an additional few inches clearance.
Staple the fabric directly into the wooden frame along the back border, with the fabric folded down and across itself along the edge of the bass trap.
Once you have the corners stapled, you can switch to an alternate form of fastening, like glue, if you prefer.
Make sure not to stretch the fabric too taut as this can lead to it tearing over time.
For all intents and purposes, you can stop here and call it a day as the finished project will perfectly function as mobile, modular DIY bass traps.
That said, there are still a couple of things that you can do with the most effective being a treatment with a dampening compound along every open space and on top of the fabric cover–if the cover’s material is thick enough to support the weight of the dampening compound.
While we do not recommend entirely closing off the back as you may need to eventually replace the insulation, it is not a bad idea to build removable panels for the backside of the bass trap.